Under the shadow of the magnificent and imposing Pyramid of the Moon in the ancient city of Teotihuacan is some of the best molé you'll ever have. It's a bold claim, sure, but know that it's cooked by Mexican grandmothers using their generations-old recipe that's considered as the best molé in the region. Who's to deny that?
It all starts with the unassuming charm of the restaurant itself, Restaurante Techinanco, a joint run by Doña Emma and her two sisters, the three of whom are affectionately called by the locals as 'Las Abuelas de Teotihuacan', which translates in English to, 'The Grandmothers of Teotihuacan'. Doña Emma shuffles expeditiously from the kitchen to diners' tables, offering a warm smile, plates of comfort, and if you have the time, some enlightening conversation about the culture of Teotihuacan, once a flourishing pre-Columbian city and what many historians and archaeologists consider as one of the most powerful hubs in Mesoamerica.
Locals and tourists alike swear by the authenticity, no frills goodness, and just-like-grandma-made-it excellence of the food at Restaurante Techinanco, where the molé shines as the star of the menu. To which I can affirm with 'Yup, all of the above'.
Definitely go with their specialty, the Molé Négro, which features huitlacoche, an edible corn smut that's a Mexican delicacy. The complex nature of their molé was all at once campfire smoky, smoldering with spice, and earthy with a warmth and sweetness that's akin to a kiss on the cheek from grandma.
The imposing and undeniable presence of ancient history I felt in Teotihuacan, where the weight and intensity of thousands of years of existence created a palpable energy and sense of reverence in me. Couple that with the modest charm, tender graciousness, and enchanting molé of Las Abuelas de Teotihuacan and I was left with a meal as unforgettable as the age-old city's past.